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Ceramic and Quarry Tiles Paving

Tiles make an unmistakable, rather formal clearing material, especially fitting for connecting inside and outside. A tiled floor would be reasonable for a yard driving of a parlor and isolated just by a glass entryway, for instance, or connected to a center with a corridor. The more slender tiles are likewise amazing for rooftops and overhangs, being nearly light and simple to lay.

In general, when we discuss tiles as a garden clearing medium we mean quarry tiles, which are comprised of mud and let go to a high temperature. Coated earthenware tiles are gentler and chip with steady wear, yet they can look sublime in the correct setting, for example, a yard, gallery or rooftop cultivate in a sunny atmosphere.

The central points of interest of quarry tiles are that they are hard wearing and for all intents and purposes support free. It is a smart thought to utilize them for grill and open air eating zones since they clean effectively. While they have a rich appearance, the gritty chestnut and red shades in which they are made mix well with the regular hues found in the garden and don’t blur. Quarry tiles are, however fairly costly to purchase and they are difficult to lay. They additionally have a tendency to be elusive when wet and, being tricky permeable, they are in no way, shape or form ice verification.

It is difficult to cut quarry tiles and calculations should, where possible, be based on numbers of whole tiles. They come in a variety of sizes and shapes and thickness varies from 12mm to 30mm, increasing as the size goes up. Tiles 12mm or 15mm thick are machine made and more tightly compressed then those between 20mm and 30mm thick, which are handmade and have a rougher more absorbent surface. The handmade ones also vary slightly in size and shape and need wider joints to allow for the irregularities.

If the paved surface is to be hard wearing and permanent, quarry tiles are best laid on a concrete base and bedded in a 1:3 cement and sand mortar mix. Thicker handmade tiles should be soaked for several hours first, to prevent them taking up moisture form the mortar. Allow 24 hours for the mortar to harden. If the tiles are laid close together the joints can be filled by spreading thin mortar with a squeegee; if they are widely spaced, use a pointing trowel to fill the gaps.

Make sure that any wet mortar spilled on the tiles is wiped off with a clean, damp cloth or sponge immediately; dry mortar is much more difficult to get off a porous surface (though it can be done with wire wool or with a muriatic acid solution – but follow the manufacturer’s instructions).

Ceramic and Quarry Tiles

Patterned ceramic tiles are used widely in the countries bordering the Mediterranean. They are especially suited to roof balconies or courtyard gardens. If the tiles are over patterned or too colourful, they may detract from the overall garden design; a simple black and white pattern will suit most gardens.

Quarry tiles come in many shapes and sizes. Hexagonal tiles in a mellow red complement the garden foliage without sticking out like a sore thumb.

Laying Quarry Tiles

  1. Cut two pieces of wood the length of a row of six tiles and their joints; these will then act as gauge rods and the position of the tiles should be marked on them. Lay batters either side of the first area to be tiles and check their height with a spirit level, using wedges of wood to get them even and nailing them temporarily with masonry nails.
  2. Make a dragging board slightly longer than the gauge rods, and cut notches 9mm shallower then the thickness of the tiles, so that the board fits between the battens. Use the dragging board to spread mortar over the first area to be tiled.
  3. If the tiles are being laid against a wall, the batten next to the wall should be laid within the length of the gauge rods so that, having spread the rest of the mortar, you can remove this batten and fill the gap by trowel. Dust the mortar with dry cement before laying the tiles.
  4. Lay the first area of the tiles between the wall and the outside batten, using gauge rods to space them correctly. Then tamp the tiles down with a wooden block to get them secure and level with the batten.
  5. The tiles may get slightly displaces by tamping them down, so run a trowel along the joints afterwards to straighten them. Move the gauge rods and battens along and repeat the laying process for another area. Dust the edge of the already laid mortar with dry cement before spreading the next area.
  6. Twenty four hours after the whole tiled area has been laid, mortar the joints with a pointing trowel and finish them off with a rounded stick. Use a wet cloth to wipe off surplus mortar and after this has dried, wash the tiles finally with soap less detergent.

Quarry tiles can be laid inside and out and are particularly effective to link two area together.